The chance for a quick getaway to the coast came in the form of a long weekend, and doing what anyone else would do after being cooped up on top of a hill for a month, I hopped on the first shinkansen out to Kanazawa. Despite an earlier forecast for constant rain, I arrived to blue skies and rapidly melting snow-- not an unwelcoming prospect, judging by the fact that I hadn't seen anything but snow for the past 30 days.
KENROKU-EN 兼六園
An idyllic 25-acre sanctuary in the middle of the built-up Kenroku district, the original outer gardens of Kanazawa Castle exemplify the "six sublimities", believed by the Chinese to be the elements of an ideal garden-- spaciousness & seclusion, artifice & antiquity as well as water-courses & panoramas. As we walk through the entrance, ticket in hand, the first thing that catches my eye is the group of park workers clad in blue uniforms, working away with gardening tools. It almost seems as if I have passed through an invisible barrier keeping the urban bustle out. Hawks circle in pairs overhead, mere silhouettes against the mid-afternoon sky. A gentle breeze rustles what few leaves are left from Autumn as we walk over glasslike ponds, dark grey fish gazing imploringly through the blurred reflection of my face. Aside from the occasional gaggle of squawking tour groups, shepherded by equally noisy leaders, the gardens remain tranquil, exuding a sense of calm. We walk through the plum grove, early cherry blossoms unfurling in the winter sun. I drop one yen into a fountain, and it winks back, still unweathered by frigid water. Exiting the park after my afternoon stroll, I'm struck by the return of city sounds, a telltale sign that I have crossed the borders of this sanctuary. A worthwhile visit, I would not hesitate to return to this pocket of nature.
OMICHO MARKET 近江町市場
(The suspicious lack of photos is MOSTLY due to the fact that I spent a large portion of my time here wolfing down an over-indulgence of mochi and freshly opened uni)
Having expected Omicho Market to have a similarly tourist-overrun vibe to Tsukijii Market in Tokyo, I'm pleasantly surprised by the absence of huddles of tour groups clogging the sheltered pathways under circus-yellow construction fabric. Lining relatively broad roads are stalls touting "the best (一番)" produce in the market. A few of the highlights for me were eating succulent grilled unagi, freshly made 苺大福餅 (strawberry mochi-- the best kind).
Having expected Omicho Market to have a similarly tourist-overrun vibe to Tsukijii Market in Tokyo, I'm pleasantly surprised by the absence of huddles of tour groups clogging the sheltered pathways under circus-yellow construction fabric. Lining relatively broad roads are stalls touting "the best (一番)" produce in the market. A few of the highlights for me were eating succulent grilled unagi, freshly made 苺大福餅 (strawberry mochi-- the best kind).
HIGASHI CHAYA DISTRICT 東茶屋街
Straight after guzzling our way through Omicho Market, we walk on, skipping out on taking a taxi in lieu of our exceedingly large breakfast. It's a clear day, but clouds hover on the horizon as we walk down wide, empty streets. Before hitting the Higashi Chaya district proper, we first make a brief stop at one of Kanazawa's iconic omiyage shops, Tawaraya Ame. Located in a preeminently residential neighbourhood, we get to walk through the quieter suburbs of Kanazawa before reaching our destination. Sliding open rustic screen doors, we duck under the fluttering cloth panels at the entrance, greeted by a countertop stocked with different products, one of which is the famed じろ飴 (jiroame candy). Upon request from a friend, I promptly order 2 jars, but I'm unable to resist the allure of the other candies on display, buying a couple more boxes in the end with the excuse that they would make good gifts.
My first thought upon reaching the Higashi Chaya district is of how it feels as if this area has not been worn by time nor trend; despite the tourist element of the area, it retains a rustic, homely feel that is oddly comforting. When we arrive, thicker clouds threaten rain so fewer people are out on the streets than one would expect. In anticipation of rain, we enter a traditional tea shop, exhibiting an array of delicate rice cakes and tidbits. In desperate need of a rest, we succumb to temptation and order matcha, as well as an assortment of small edibles to go with it. A delightful break from the amount of walking we had accomplished, it is a fulfilling time of recuperation.
As the sun starts to prevail over the impending rain, we venture outside again, aimlessly traversing the backroads of the area in hopes of avoiding tour groups (we were unsuccessful). My favourite part of the district, perhaps, is simply walking around and absorbing the laid back winter atmosphere, observing how people live and enjoying the cool weather.
21ST CENTURY MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART KANAZAWA
The Museum's ever-popular art fixture, the "Swimming Pool", conveniently situates itself next to the ticket booth, seemingly normal from far away. However, entering the open-air courtyard housing the exhibit, I am intrigued to find that the rippling figures that seem to be underwater are museum-goers, enthusiastically waving up to their friends above. The ingenious illusion, I discover, is that the "pool" is nothing more than a few inches of water over a plexiglass ceiling, looking down into a plain concrete room where people can stand.
I purchase a ticket for Inoue Yuichi's "A Centennial Exhibition", featuring rooms full of delicately swept calligraphy. Each carefully set up space compliments the art, from dusty yellow lighting and walls packed with broad, ink-splattered strokes to luminous fluorescence and open space, lined with individual characters. The exhibition is breathtaking, providing a whole new perspective to the beauty of calligraphy.
Like every other good museum I've been to, an equally invigorating part of the experience is the gift shop, touting the most eccentric of goods unique to the place. Photography was greatly frowned upon, unfortunately, but it was an entertaining curation of unique products.
Kanazawa was, in many ways for me, a completely new, completely foreign experience that I'd completely underestimated. I wouldn't hesitate to go again, with good company, too.
